Sunday, 26 October 2014

MOUNT TREMBLANT AND THE LAURENTIAN MOUNTAINS

Getting there:

Jackie, Jim and family are all keen skiers, and have had a condo in Mont Tremblant for a number of years. They offered us the chance to stay there en route to Quebec City. We spent a wonderfully comfortable and relaxing 2 days there.
We drove from Ottawa, via the small, pretty town of Montebello.




The Laurentians

Looming on the north side of the St Lawrence from the Ottawa River to the Saguenay River, the Laurentians are one of the world's oldest ranges.. Five hundred million years of erosion have moulded a landscape of undulating hills and valleys, and a vast sweep of coniferous forest dotted with hundreds of tranquil lakes and rivers.

Mont Tremblant:


130 km north of Montreal, Mont Tremblant is the oldest and most renowned area in the Laurentians. It is crowned by its highest peak, Mont-Tremblant ( 960 km.), so-called because the indigenous population believed it was the home of spirits that could move the mountain. 
Mont-Tremblant comprises the ski resort itself plus the merged town of St-Jovite, and the pedestrian-only Mont-Tremblant Village.





We had clearly come between seasons: too early for skiing yet a little too late for the hiking / biking season. There were a fair number of visitors, and everything was open, but it was still a bit hard to imagine the place thronged with people, the bars and restaurants full to the brim, as it woud be in a few weeks. 
Taking Jackie's advice, we walked along the P'tit Train du Nord ( a disused railway line, now cycle track),



around Lake Mercier ....





.... then to the waterfall...









There were some impressive views from up there.


We drove out to near the Casino, to a stunningly beautiful lake that was clearly going to be far more developed before too long.



Then another waterfall....




... and a pretty marina.



Wednesday, 22 October 2014

MONTREAL

Mark Twain noted that, in Montreal, '....you couldn't throw a brick without hitting a church'.

Getting there:

As Montreal is only a 2 hour drive from Ottawa, we decided to visit it on the Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend.
We were glad we went but it was not a place we fell in love with.
Beware: driving on the Highways that ring this city is not for the faint-hearted or those of a nervous disposition!

Montreal's History:

The island of Montreal was originally occupied by the St Lawrence Iroquois, the first European contact being in 1535 when Jacques Cartier was led here while searching for a northwest route to Asia. A small French settlement was not established until 1611.  A hundred years later, in 1642, the tiny town of Ville-Marie was founded as a Sulpician mission by Paul Chomedey, sieur de Maisonneuve. It soon became a centre of the fur trade. After its capture by the English in 1762, Montreal remained (until the 1970s) the most important city in Canada and was briefly capital of the province in the 1840s.
Prohibition on sales of alcohol in the United States during the 1920s and 1930s made Montreal a mecca for cross-border fun seekers from nearby New England and New York. The city built up a seedy, yet playful, industry in alcohol, burlesque, and other vices. In the 1960s, an urban renewal drive centred around Expo 67. The World's Fair in Montreal brought a subway system and a number of attractive urban parks. The 1976 Olympics left a strikingly idiosyncratic stadium and many other urban improvements.
As Montreal expanded in the mid-20th century, the old city, Vieux-Montreal, fell into decline, severed from downtown by the Autoroute Ville-Marie. In the early 1960s, however, developers stepped in and by the 1980s the district had undergone a transformation.

Vieux - Montreal:

In a big and, it seemed to us, an ugly city, Vieux Montreal is a breath of fresh air with its cobbled streets ...



......its markets ( outdoor


 
and indoor)....


its green spaces......


and its diverse architecture.



Vieux-Port:


In its glory days of the 19th century, the Vieux-Port was one of the most important inland harbours in North America but it declined in the 1970s when the main shipyards shifted east. In 1992 this now-vacant space was renovated for public use with parks, a promenade, biking and jogging tracks.



There is still some evidence of what was here before the clean-up.


Place d'Armes

The focal point of Vieux-Montreal is Place d'Armes and here stands a century-old statue of Maisonneuve whose missionary zeal outraged the displaced Iriquois. The dog represents the animal who warned the French of an impending attack in 1644. Legend says that the ensuing battle ended when the supposedly unarmed Maisonneuve killed the Iriquois chief on this very spot.




Basilique Notre-Dame:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Notre-Dame_Basilica_(Montreal)

A twin-towered, neo-Gothic Catholic cathedral in the centre of Place d'Armes, the Basilica is Montreal's grandest Catholic church. Originally built in the 17th century, a new building was commissioned in 1829 and splendidly redecorated in the 1870s.




Seminaire de St-Sulpice:

This mock-medieval seminary is generally considered to be Montreal's oldest building. It was founded in 1685 by the Paris-based Sulpicians Fathers, the priests who also run the basilica. Unfortunately it is not open to the public.




Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours:

The chapel dates from the earliest days of the colony and has long been the spiritual home of Quebec's sailors.The outstretched arms of the Virgin on the tower became a landmark for ships on the St Lawrence and, once safely landed, the mariners would endow the chapel with wooden votive lamps in the shape of ships.




Chateau Ramezay:

www.chateauramezay.qc.ca/en/

When Montreal's 11th governor, Claude de Ramezay, arrived in the city in 1702 he was homesick for Normandy and decided to build a residence that was reminiscent of the chateaux back home, with stone walls, dormer windows and copper roof. 
Many of de Ramezay's governor successors lived here and the building also housed the West India Company.






Tuesday, 21 October 2014

GATINEAU PARK


Getting there:



Fortunately, Jackie was free that day and was able to give us a guided tour and the benefit of her excellent knowledge of the area.

Just across the river from Ottawa, and between the Gatineau and Ottawa rivers, this 360 sq km ( 140 sq ml ) oasis of 63 lakes and rolling hills, has long been popular with Ottawa's bikers and hikers. 
The park was founded in 1938 when the government snapped up  the land to stop its deforestation for firewood during the hard years of the Depression.
It's a vast area and outstandingly beautiful. Photos can not do justice to it.

The Pink Lake:





The Eardley Escarpment:




Mackenzie King Estate:


The park contains the private estate of the longest-serving Canadian Prime Minister (whose official residence, Laurier House, we had visited in Ottawa).


Kingswood
 dating from the early years of the 20th century, was where the guests were housed, and many of the original houses have been carefully renovated.




Kingsmere Lake:





Moorside
was the more modern house and farm Mackenzie King had built for himself in the 1920s. When we had visited Laurier House earlier one of the guides there had told us that Canadians had been less than impressed that their Prime Minister had lavished such money on himself at a time when most people in Canada were suffering poverty and unemployment in the Depression.
As with his Ottawa residence, seances were held in Moorside.




An austere bedroom, but note the large radio.


The beautiful grounds, as seen from the veranda. 


There were even ruins, 'acquired' from Europe, in the grounds.